Technical Library - CMC

Other Technical Articles:

Q ln my 1973 E-Type V12 Roadster I'm getting exhaust fumes inside the cabin. It's noticeable but bearable when driving with the top down, but if I open the windows (it's OK with the windows closed) with the top fitted, my eyes go red in a matter of minutes and it even makes some passengers feel drowsy. I've tried different carb settings (it's fitted with SUs instead of the original Zenith-Strombergs) and even changed the ignition to a Lumenition performance system (with a small improvement), but local specialists tell me it's an inherent problem of the car's aerodynamic design and little can be done. Is it so? Daniel Milnes, Spain.

A Tracing the cause of exhaust fumes entering the passenger compartment can be very frustrating. When you are driving with the hood up and the windows closed, positive air pressure is created by the heater air vents, keeping the fumes out, but with both side windows open the air is sucked out, creating a slight vacuum which will readily draw in fumes through any holes at the rear or underneath that are not thoroughly sealed.

Start by checking that there are no leaks from the exhaust underneath the car and no holes where sealing grommets have perished or are missing, or cover plates that have not been re-sealed after removal.

At the rear of the car, check that all sealing gaskets are properly fitted behind the rear lamps and numberplate lamp and that all holes into the boot area are sealed. Check also that the rubber seal around the boot is sealing by trapping a narrow strip of paper with the boot shut and pulling the strip to see if it is gripped by the rubber. Repeat this operation systematically all round the edge of the boot. If the seal is not tight, maybe the boot lock can be adjusted to pull the boot in tighter to the body to compress the seal, or failing that, replace the seal rubber.

Next, try making some temporary extensions to the exhaust tail pipes to get the gases further away from the car, as your pictures seem to show that the existing pipes may be set too short. You could also briefly remove the 'wider than usual1 numberplate to see if that is compounding the problem.

Missing Parts...

Q I have bought an E-type Series IIOTS, 1970. Some items are missing and difficult to obtain. Do you have any idea how to get a brake servo when I have none to exchange, or where I might find the door window mechanisms? Alf Gjessing, Norway

A If you have bought a car that is not totally complete, getting hold of some items can be difficult. Whilst many parts for E-types are now re-made, there are some items such as the brake servo and window winder mechanisms which are not available as new parts. We would suggest that you spend some time contacting UK companies who specialise in E-type repairs and dealers of secondhand parts who attend the various Jaguar spares days and BeaulieuAutojumbles. [A number of our advertisers might be able to help, such as Ken Verity, 0044 1709 838352, RM&J Smith, 0044 1270 820885, or Classic Autosports, 0044 1241 830557. Do mention The E-type Club when contacting them, as some offer discounts to Club members. A 'wanted' ad in The E-type may also be worthwhile!-Ed]

Q The second problem is a strong "clack-clack-clack-clack" sound coming from beneath the car when accelerating hard in first or second gear. It gets worse if the car is going uphill. checked that the exhaust and gearbox are properly held in place, and it seems that they are. Any ideas of what could be the source of this noise? Daniel Milnes, Spain

Issue 7

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not For The Faint-Hearted Part 4

Issue 9

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not for the Faint-Hearted Part 6

Issue 9

Andrew Turvey's Technical Topics

Issue 20

Griffin, Tim, CMC Column "Substructure Fabrication" (July, 2006)

Issue 24

Issue 25

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey "The Slammer: Doors"

Issue 25

K&N E Q&A:

Issue 30

Issue 33

Issue 33

Issue 32

Issue 31

Issue 30

Issue 34

Issue 36

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Issue 37

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