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Technical Library - K&N Q&A, issue 30

Other Technical Articles:

No more nagging problems: Keith Martin and Nigel Cronkfrom K & N Classic Cars have the solutions! Please keep your emails and letters coming in. Email questions to Malcolm@e-typeclub.com or post to Malcolm McKay via the Club office.

 

Handbrake hassle

 

Q  My V12 E-type has just failed the MoTtest because of poor handbrake efficiency. I have tried to move the adjusters but they are rusted up, and do not move. It looks almost impossible to get to the handbrake mechanism without removing the whole rear subframe assembly from the car. Is there an easier way to do the job?

 

A  Unfortunately there is no easier way! Removal of the subframe assembly is the only way to get access to the handbrake paddles and linkages.

This slight pressure is not noticeable when driving the car but, as you can imagine, the handbrake pads become damaged by the excessive heat, wearing them quickly out of adjustment and even causing the friction material to break up and detach from the paddles.

 

For a lasting cure, strip down all the linkages and pivots to remove all the corrosion, fit new friction pads to the paddles and re­assemble with anti-seize grease. With the rear subframe out of the car it is a good opportunity to also check the condition of the brake pipes, the suspension bushes and drive train before re-fitting.

On some earlier E-types, removable panels were fitted in the boot floor above the diff carrier to give limited access to the rear disc calipers and handbrake paddles, but even on these cars it can be quicker in the long run to remove the subframe if further problems are found.

 

The inboard disc brakes do suffer badly from corrosion as there is little protection from salt and grit thrown up from the road, in particular the handbrake paddles and linkages seize up on the pivot pins, resulting in the handbrake pads staying applied after the handbrake lever is released.

Soft-top mystery

A  We are puzzled by your 1963 Roadster having a glassfibre front header rail on the hood assembly. As far as we can tell the cars leaving the factory only ever had the steel panel and wooden section forming the front part of the hood assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We can only assume that someone has made the glassfibre section, although the correct spare parts are available from E-type spares stockists. You may find that you have a few problems trimming the hood and fixing the hold-down catches securely as they take a lot of strain when closed.

 

Our thanks to Ken Verity, E-type restoration specialist, for his assistance with this one. Has anyone else come across a glassfibre section on their hood? We are all intrigued. [Tom Hampton, trimmer at CMC, reckons that the glassfibre 'fillets' -which he has come across - are aftermarket items and not original. Jaguar used a combination of steel header rail and a laminated wooden section here, never glassfibre. PP]

Q  Could you tell me when the bonnet's glassfibre front panel section was used instead of the metal panel which is clamped to the top of the windscreen? My roadster came off the line in April 1963. The glassfibre version has the three bonnet clamps screwed directly into the glassfibre's thicker leading edge area, there being no thicker and separate 'bow' piece. John R Kellogg, San Marcos, California

Issue 36

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Bonnet Gaps

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Issue 37

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: The Reliable Formula

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