location :  home > members > technical library 

K&N: Q&A - Well, Oil be Dammed..., Off With His Head!

Other Technical Articles:

Issue 7

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not For The Faint-Hearted Part 4

 

Issue 9

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not for the Faint-Hearted Part 6

 

Issue 9

Andrew Turvey's Technical Topics

 

Issue 20

Griffin, Tim, CMC Column "Substructure Fabrication" (July, 2006)

 

Issue 24

K&N E Q&A:

Gear change gremlins

Starting Woes

 

Issue 25

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey "The Slammer: Doors"

 

Issue 25

K&N E Q&A:

Series I Not stopping

series I Slow Revver

 

Issue 26

K&N E Q&A:

Petrol Tank Puzzle SII, SI Electrical Check (January 2007)

 

Issue 27

K&N E Q&A:

The Editor's fizzing..., Overdriving E-type?, Stud breaker (February 2007)

 

Issue 28

K&N E Q&A:

All tanked up..., E-towing, Spokes in the wheel

Issue 28

CMC Column

Burning old fossil, by Andrew Turvey

 

Issue 29

K&N E Q&A:

V12 Exhaust Fumes, Noise from Under Car, Series II Missing Parts (March 2007)

Issue 30

K&N Q&A:

Handbrake hassle, Soft-top mystery

Issue 30

Newman, Denis "Experts' Wrinkles: The Club Technical Seminar at CMC" (April, 2007)

Q My 1968 SlVa E-type leaks a considerable amount of oil. What would be the top five seals/leak paths to tackle on this engine? Ross Braithwaite

 

A Actually there are six common sources of oil leaks on the six-cylinder engine:

 

1. Cam box covers leaking from the gasket joint with the cylinder head. Check covers for distortion cracking and warping, often caused by over-tightening the dome nuts. Re-face the gasket faces if necessary and re-fit with new gaskets, 'O' rings and new copper washers underthe dome nuts.

 

2. Oil feed pipe to camshafts at the back of the cylinder head. Check for hairline cracks in the pipe to banjo joints, mating surfaces are free of damage and re-fit with new special copper washers. New pipes are available from suppliers if the originals are in poor condition.

 

3. Oil filter sealing ring between the filter body and cover can leak if the new sealing ring is not evenly fitted in the groove when the filter is changed. Make sure that the new seal is sitting squarely in the groove, apply some clean engine oil to the filter cover and assemble loosely. Gently centralise and rotate the cover prior to final tightening. Also check that the 'O' ring sealing the central fixing bolt is still in serviceable condition. Check again for leaks with the engine oil hot after every oil filter change.

 

4. Sump gaskets can leak a considerable amount of oil if the fixing bolts are no longer tight. Dry off the oil from the sump/block joint, tighten all the bolts and see if the oil leak continues. Sump removal is possible with the engine in situ so, if it still leaks, remove the sump and replace the gaskets and the cork/rubber end seal strip over the rear main bearing. Be sure that all surfaces are clean and free of oil and assemble with a good quality sealer on the new gaskets.

 

5. Front oil seal in timing cover. If the front oil seal is leaking, it can be replaced by the removal of the timing cover when the sump is off.

 

6. Rear crankshaft oil seal. The rear crankshaft oil seal can only be replaced with the crankshaft removed, which involves taking the engine and gearbox out of the carfirst.

Q I am about to take the head off my SIY2 engine. Having read the manual but never done anything approaching this before, is there any good advice available before I start? Ross Braithwaite

 

A If you have not had any experience of doing this work before, we would suggest that you enlist the help of a knowledgeable friend. In theory the job is straightforward but, if the cylinder head has not been disturbed for many years, you may find that the head studs are seized in the head due to corrosion. These will require releasing oils, skill and a lot of patience to remove the cylinder head without damaging it or the block. Great care should be exercised with regard to valve timing and to prevent damaging open valves.

Issue 33

K&N Q&A 'SUs for V12s, Bung it here...'

Issue 33

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey, "The Low-down".

Issue 32

K&N Q&A: Well Oil be Dammed.., Off With His Head!

Issue 31

K&N Q&A: Bumper rubber solution, Sparkless when hot.

Issue 34

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Fitting Doors

Issue 36

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Bonnet Gaps

Page 1

Page 2 

Page 3 

Issue 37

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: The Reliable Formula

Page 1

Page 2 

Page 3