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Technical Library - E-Q&A with K&N

Welcome to the first edition of the Problem Page, kindly supplied by Keith Martin & Nigel Cronk of K & N Classic Cars. Now at last you've got the chance to find the answer to that problem that has been driving you mad with your E-type. Don't hold back, get asking! Email questions to Malcolm@e-typeclub.com or post to Malcolm McKay via the Club office. Where Keith and Nigel are unable to find a solution themselves, they promise to contact specialists in the trade for their opinion and hopefully find the answer to your problem. We can also have an open forum on some of the topics, as you can be sure that someone out there has come across the same problem - and found the answer!

To start the ball rolling, we had an interesting problem recently on a Series I, 4.2 Roadster, where the owner was having problems with his gearbox. Starting off from cold, all was well and the gears all selected fairly smoothly, but once caught up in slow-moving traffic, temperatures started to rise and the gear selection became more difficult and very' notchy'. 

Inevitably he would get caught at the front of a queue at some traffic lights and, when they turned green, the gearlever would refuse to engage first gear, with the other gears very stiff.Something had to be done, as the car was no fun to drive: could we help? 'Knowledgeable' friends had pointed out that worn selectors in higher-mileage gearboxes could be the cause and thoughts turned to possible five-speed replacements such as the Getrag or Borg Warner T5. However, we were not totally convinced about the fault being inside the gearbox and, although the clutch had been replaced some 15,000 miles previously, it warranted a closer inspection.

 

Taking the engine and gearbox out of an E-type is not for the faint-hearted as it involves a lot of dismantling and some sturdy lifting gear. However, once out of the car and on the bench, the gearbox and clutch were removed for a closer inspection. The guilty party turned out to be the clutch after all - not particularly worn, but rusty on the splines, causing the clutch plate to stick slightly when getting hot in traffic. This was not noticeable in operating the clutch pedal but created enough drag to keep the gearbox input shaft turning and preventing smooth gear selection.

 

A new top-quality clutch kit was fitted, 'sparingly' lubricated with anti-seize grease on the splines. The result? The E-type is now once again a pleasure to drive with a smooth gearshift - hot or cold. It can be very easy to jump to the wrong conclusions when something goes wrong with the drive-train, so don't assume the worst- go and seek advice from the specialists.

Starting Woes

Gear Change Gremlins

"If I haven't used my car for three weeks or more it is often difficult to start - the engine turns over but doesn't fire. The battery is only 12 months old and has been tested OK. What can I do to improve starting?" This is quite a common problem with cars not in regular use -more so as the evenings draw in and temperatures drop. Assuming that the engine has been serviced and runs
well, the problem can be a gradual drop in battery voltage over the weeks sitting in the garage. Even when everything is switched off, small amounts of current are taken to power the radio memory, clock or burglar alarm system if fitted. This small current draw of only a few milliamps per hour can soon add up when multiplied by 24 hours a day, seven days a week, resulting in a battery no longer atfull charge.The solution? Fitting a battery isolation switch is one solution but is not very convenient as alarm systems don't work and radios have to be reset each time the power is reconnected.The best solution is to fit a battery maintenance charger. These are designed to be left connected to the battery continuously whilst the car is in the garage. The charger monitors the battery condition and cuts the charging rate in and out as required, without overcharging the cells. The difference it makes is remarkable, with a fully-charged battery the engine spins over more readily without dropping the voltage fed to the ignition coil, which is necessary for a good spark and better starting. Highly recommended.

Other Technical Articles:

Issue 7

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not For The Faint-Hearted Part 4

 

Issue 9

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not for the Faint-Hearted Part 6

 

Issue 9

Andrew Turvey's Technical Topics

 

Issue 20

Griffin, Tim, CMC Column "Substructure Fabrication" (July, 2006)

 

Issue 24

K&N E Q&A:

Gear change gremlins

Starting Woes

 

Issue 25

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey "The Slammer: Doors"

 

Issue 25

K&N E Q&A:

Series I Not stopping

series I Slow Revver

 

Issue 26

K&N E Q&A:

Petrol Tank Puzzle SII, SI Electrical Check (January 2007)

 

Issue 27

K&N E Q&A:

The Editor's fizzing..., Overdriving E-type?, Stud breaker (February 2007)

 

Issue 28

K&N E Q&A:

All tanked up..., E-towing, Spokes in the wheel

Issue 28

CMC Column

Burning old fossil, by Andrew Turvey

 

Issue 29

K&N E Q&A:

V12 Exhaust Fumes, Noise from Under Car, Series II Missing Parts (March 2007)

Issue 30

K&N Q&A:

Handbrake hassle, Soft-top mystery

Issue 30

Newman, Denis "Experts' Wrinkles: The Club Technical Seminar at CMC" (April, 2007)

Issue 33

K&N Q&A 'SUs for V12s, Bung it here...'

Issue 33

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey, "The Low-down".

Issue 32

K&N Q&A: Well Oil be Dammed.., Off With His Head!

Issue 31

K&N Q&A: Bumper rubber solution, Sparkless when hot.

Issue 34

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Fitting Doors

Issue 36

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Bonnet Gaps

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Issue 37

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: The Reliable Formula

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